Ramadan, the sultan of eleven months according to the Hijri calendar (the lunar Islamic calendar) is a different month for the people in Istanbul as for Muslims around the world. Here, people try finding spiritual oases for reinventing themselves and their traditions in Ramadan, after being long fatigued with the bustling times of Istanbul.
But this time the newly emerged COVID 19 has badly brought the Ramadan celebrations in Istanbul into a halt. Despite this afflictive ambience, people find different ways to celebrate Ramadan maintaining the social distancing.
However, Ramadan which was both “Praying and Partying” in Istanbul is now confined to balconies.
During Ramadan days, much before the dawn, around 3 AM, Davulcu (drummer) appears in the streets aside the residences beating drums and duffs thunderously and wishing the natives. Walking either in groups or as single ones, they ensure that the residents are woken up for the pre-dawn meal (Sahur). Citizens of the city will greet them with offerings. Despite the constraints of pandemic order, this 600-year-old tradition is still practised here in Ramadan.
For the pre-dawn meal, people of Istanbul usually consume Turk Kahvaltı (Turkish breakfast) which constitutes cheese, olives, chocolate, honey or jam, boiled eggs, tomatoes and cucumber along with a cup of Turkish tea.
Sahur will be followed with Quran recitation which lasts until the call for Fajr prayer.
Although days are usual as other months in the secular provinces of Beyoğlu and Şişli, the lamps and lights of Ramadan are seen in Fatih and other places in Istanbul. Istanbul is a major destination for tourists where visitors surpass the living population. Cafes, restaurants and other services are opened here in Ramadan too.
Istanbulites observe an average 16-17 hours of fasting. Diyanet, the authority for religious affairs conduct sermons in mosques, and in the evening they arrange ‘Mevlid-i-Nebi’ concerts where people praise the extols of Muhammad PBUH. Moreover, funds are pooled from the masses as charity for the war-torn countries like Syria and Yemen. All these programs and activities have altered to televisions and other digital platforms in this year’s pandemic context.
In the evenings, frontages of bakers could witness long queues of people buying Ramadan Pide which is a special pita bread available only in the holy month.
In Sultan Ahmet Meydan, families and peers secure their place for the Iftar picnic. People also gather in the banks of Bosphorus in Üsküdar and Eyüp Sultan.
Once the green colours are lit on the minarets with the Ezan, people break the fasting together.
Fatih , istanbul
In recent years, tourists and non-muslims also began to explore Ramadan by attending the special Iftar dine of Süleymaniye Mosque.
People also spend in post-Iftar shopping and the special eateries arranged by Istanbul Metropolitan Municipality. From desserts like Baklava and Muhallebi to Turkish ice creams, varieties of recipes and food, and many souvenirs are found in Ramadan Bazaars. Unfortunately, Ramadan this year has been defined with more spirituality, giving less space for these celebrations.
Even though COVID 19 has deserted the city, Ramadan is observed in all possible ways. People continue the tradition of displaying daily Ramadan messages in between the minarets of mosques, and worship from their home with family. Sermons, concerts and gatherings have switched to internet platforms. Government has given Davulcus the consent to continue the centuries-old tradition for the best experience of Ramadan in hard times but instructed not to accept funds or contributions from people. Istanbul is indeed marking this Ramadan its own.
